Trip to Kafue, Zambia

In October 2025 I returned to Zambia. I had always wanted to go to Kafue National Park but it is very remote and, since COVID, particularly expensive to go there. I had finally saved enough so this was a much anticipated trip. I was attracted to Kafue for several reasons. Firstly it was truly remote and I get a buzz from being so far away from noise and pressures of Western civilisation. Secondly, although I had made several trips to Zambia, this was going to be a very different ecosystem… vast open plains in the first part of my trip and large river in the second half. Thirdly although the animals would be spread out there would be some varieties of antelope that I had not seen very often. And last but not least the park only had a small number of lodges and there was a good chance of being the only vehicle at a sighting. Don’t get me wrong I love to share a sighting and see others really ‘made up’ to have seen it – but in many reserves now the sheer quantity of full safari vehicles at a sighting somehow reduces it to a kind of raucous side-show. I miss the old traditional courtesies where if you were at a sighting or in a beautiful place – you were quiet, still and observant… immersed in a ‘moment’ in time. I know…very old fashioned but that’s what happens when you get old like me. Trust me it will happen to you too one day.

Because my flight to Kafue was going to be early in the morning I was booked in overnight at Latitude 15 in Lusaka. It was a welcome stop – a chance to recover a little from the international flight (London Heathrow to Doha and Doha to Lusaka with Qatar – enjoyable but lengthy). Unexpectedly the hotel was a delight – a real bonus!

It was a small boutique hotel, the rooms were fine and I enjoyed the food but what marked it out was that everything spoke of Africa. Every room, corridor and public space was filled with African artefacts. Some were traditional some modern. The range of artwork was extraordinary and displayed in a way that enhanced every room in a different but satisfying way. It was like being in a private gallery. So although I would typically start a diary with animals, this time I need to start with African Art!

In addition to these kinds of subjects there were striking portrait photos – full of personality and impact. In one room there was an enormous picture that could be seen across the room – even before you had entered.

This painting meets you head on as you enter the room. His eyes engage with you directly and there is a feeling of dominance. Somehow a feeling that he belonged and I didn’t but not threatening… just secure.

This modern piece is on a wall in a corridor. But the corridor is narrow so you cannot get the whole piece in frame so this is taken from outside. At first I was disappointed that there were metal frames with so many small panes of glass but now I really like the effect. It feels as if the piece is contained … protected. Seen from outside it had a real effect on me at the time and, looking at it now, this does capture the feeling of discovering it. Here in the UK we often use the phrase ‘bringing the outside in’ when talking about installing bi-fold doors from the house to the garden. This to me seems to be bringing the ‘inside out’!

The broken Africa outline on the left, with its ‘dry’ colour, and the antelope skull stand in contrast to the activity and variety around it. Africa isn’t all sunshine and the ‘stormy’ colours and variety of activity and wildlife in the rest of the picture are also the Africa I love. I wonder if the buffalo in the square on the right represents a tourist photo.

These amazing carvings draw powerful attention to the popular myths about women, fertility and pregnancy that still prevail among some groups and sectors in Africa (and maybe elsewhere in the world). I fear that a new set of ‘old wives tales’ are taking root in the minds of younger generations as the put their faith in what is passed on – no longer from generation to generation but through social media. These panels are intricate and beautifully patterned.

So many pieces!! It must have been a labour of love to construct this piece. Apart from the frame every small part is a circle. Didn’t realise until after I got home but there is a very fine cobweb on the left and a tiny gekko on the bottom right. One of the joys of taking photos is the things you capture that you did not see with the naked eye!

There was nothing to tell me what this was or where it came from but there were many carved objects around the bar area.

So this hotel was a delightful start to my trip. There were African artefacts everywhere and wonderful changes in materials and textures.